Sir Basil the Elf: Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

Hello to you all! I’m Alex, the crochet and tunisian crochet designer behind With Alex and I’m so happy to be back on the Clover Blog. Today is “National Ice Cream Cone Day” and to celebrate, I am releasing a new crochet character pattern from the Alex In Yarnder Land Series! Introducing Sir Basil, the Gelati Elf! Today’s the perfect day to share him because his motto is, “One gelato a day is good, two is better, but three is best!”

Sir Basil is the 5th crochet pattern release and short-story introduction for the Alex In Yarnder Land Series. He is sent to help Alex by a special person from her past after he has been made a knight because of an invention of his. He is a Gelati House Elf that now lives with Alex and has become Ziggy’s best friend. At night, he finds lost stitch markers and crochet hooks, he cakes yarn that is messy, tidies up the yarn shelves, weaves in the ends on Alex’s wips (works in progress), and also helps in other ways. During the day, while eating plenty of gelato, Sir Basil teaches Alex how to use her magic and he helps navigate her way through Yarnder Land. In fact, when Sir Basil isn’t helping Alex, he is probably relaxing on a window sill with a bowl or cone of his favorite gelato.

Read his introduction story, here.

Alex In Yarnder Land is about a girl named Alex who is a crochet designer that lives in a small, charming town with her cat, Ziggy. She is just a normal girl, doing normal things until she finds a magical world, Yarnder Land, and she goes on adventures where she finds her own magic while she meets different animals, creatures, and people along the way, one of which is the man of her dreams. To find out more about Alex, Blue, Aurora, The Fates and the Alex In Yarnder Land Series, read more on the With Alex blog, here.

Sir Basil was inspired by one of my favorite teachers in high school. He was a wonderful teacher, had great energy, and wore the coolest neck ties every day. For me, his class was the first one of the day, but he made those early mornings so much fun and I learned so much from him. He inspired me to turn him into a cartoon, which turned into an art project which was seen by him. Now, over twenty years later, I have used that cartoon and him as an inspiration for the sweet Sir Basil!

Sir Basil was gifted hand me down clothes from his older brothers before going to live with Alex. His light green, button up, collared shirt is a little too long for him so the sleeves are rolled up. His pants are also too long for him so they have been rolled up too. His shoes match his shirt but they are a size too big. The magical tie that his father gave him is as special to Sir Basil as it is long. Lastly, he was given a magical shield by the Gelati Court, with the emblem of their gelato on the front.

Sir Basil’s short, spiky hair is crocheted by first making a circle, then crocheting spiky hair strands around the circle, and then more hair strands are crocheted in a spiral to the center, using the unworked front loops of the stitches. This is my favorite technique for crocheting/making hair for amigurumi.

I used my size G 4.0 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook for this pattern and for all of the Alex In Yarnder Land character patterns. I love the soft handle, how lightweight it is, and the purple is SO pretty too! This hook is also used for the neck tie, which is tunisian crochet. No special tunisian crochet hook required!

For these designs, I have used a special single crochet. I do not always use this single crochet for my designs but for these amigurumi, the texture looks so beautiful that I couldn’t resist. A yarn under is used instead of the first yarn over, that’s it! This makes the top of the stitches smaller, creating closer stitches with less gaps and spaces between. I love the look of this single crochet, especially for amigurumi! Here’s a short tutorial I’ve made for you just in case:

Sir Basil was made using Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted yarn. I love working with this gorgeous yarn. It frogs well and it is also so soft, plus there are a lot of colors to choose from and they are all so beautiful! Uptown Worsted yarn is 100% anti pilling acrylic, 100 grams and 180 yards. LET’S GET STARTED!

Sir Basil Amigurumi Pattern

INFORMATION:

Difficulty: Advanced/Intermediate
Size: 9″ tall
Some photo tutorials in this pattern are a different color to be seen better and some photo tutorials in this pattern are from Alex In Yarnder Land Amigurumi or Blue: Man In The Moon Amigurumi, but they teach the same things.

MATERIALS:

Size G 4.00 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook
Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted in Acorn (1), Black (1), Glow White (1), Baby Green (1), Denim Heather (1), Mint Green (1), River (1), Donahue (1), Baby Pink (very small amount), Pale Blue (very small amount)
Polyester Fiberfill
Stitch markers
Clover Scissors
Clover Darning needle
Safety eyes (size 12 mm)
Fabric glue
Hot glue and glue gun
Pins
Beads or small buttons

ABBREVIATIONS:

sc: single crochet
2sc: single crochet increase
3sc: single crochet increase of 2
inv sc dec: invisible single crochet decrease
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
sk: skip
yo: yarn over
yu: yarn under
FLO: front loop only
BLO: back loop only
dc: double crochet
tc: triple crochet
tks: tunisian knit stitch
tfs: tunisian full stitch
tks2tog: tunisian knit stitch decrease
tks3tog: tunisian knit stitch decrease of 2

TIPS:

This pattern is worked in a continuous round (in a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.
No gauge for this pattern but make sure to stay consistent with your stitches.
You will need more than one stitch marker.
Do not overstuff the foot or it will not fit in the shoe.
Use the handle of the crochet hook or a chopstick to help with stuffing the doll with fiberfill.
tunisian crochet:

SPECIAL STITCHES:

Invisible single crochet decrease (inv sc dec): insert the hook into the front loop only of the next 2 stitches (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)

single crochet (sc): insert the hook into the next stitch (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)

invisible join: Skip the stitch next to the last stitch made and insert the needle through the next stitch (image 2), pull through and insert the needle into the back loop only of the last stitch made (image 3) and pull through.

cluster: *Yarn over and insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat from the * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all of the loops on the hook.

VIDEO TUTORIALS:

TIPS:

The neck tie can be made with the same hook used for the rest of the pattern.
The pattern is worked flat with the right side of the work facing.
At the beginning of each row, the first stitch is on the hook and counts as a tunisian knit stitch.
Do not turn your work at the beginning of each row. Each row is worked from right to left (forward pass) and then from left to right (return pass).

How To Work Into The Last Stitch Of The Tunisian Crochet Rows:

Counts as a tunisian knit stitch or tks.

Tilt the work toward you and look for the last 2 vertical bars at the end of the row. (image 1)
Insert the hook under these last 2 vertical bars. (image 2)
Yarn over, (image 3)
and pull up a loop. (image 4)

The Pattern

Please read all of the notes before beginning this pattern.
This pattern is worked in a continuous round (in a spiral) unless otherwise noted.
Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.

Head:

with acorn yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: 2sc into each st around. =16

R3: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next st. Repeat from the * around. =24

R4: sc into each st around. =24

R5: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. Repeat from the * around. =32

R6-R8: sc into each st around. =32

Weave in the end and flip right side out. Start stuffing the head with polyester fiberfill.

R9: sc into the next 14 sts, mark the middle of the 14th st with a new st marker, sc into the next 5 sts, mark the middle of the 5th st with another st marker, sc into the next 13 sts. =32

R10: sc into each st around. =32

R11: sc into the next 8 sts, 2sc into the next 4 sts, sc into the next 8 sts, 2sc into the next 4 sts, sc into the next 8 sts. =40

R12: sc into the next 19 sts, ch 3, sk 3, sc into the next 18 sts. =40

R13: sc into the next 19 sts, sc BLO into the next 3 chs, sc into the next 18 sts. =40

Take the 2 stitch markers out of R9 and replace them with safety eyes.

Continue stuffing the head as you continue the pattern.

R14: sc into the next 8 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 8 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 8 sts. =32

R15: sc into the next 14 sts, ch 4, sk 6, sc into the next 12 sts. =30

R16: (sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec) x 3, inv sc dec, sc BLO into the next 4 chs, inv sc dec, (sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec) x2, inv sc dec. =22

R17: *sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around until 2 sts remain, inv sc dec. =16

R18: inv sc dec, *sc into the next st, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around until 2 sts remain, inv sc dec. =10

Cut the yarn but leave the tail end long enough to sew to the body, pull through the last stitch made and make an invisible join. Finish stuffing and shaping the head.

Add a mouth, details to the eyes, eyebrows and blush to the cheeks.

Nose:

R1: Go back to R12 and insert the hook into the bottom right corner of the open hole (image 1), yo and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st) and sc into the same space and around 9 more times. (image 2) =10

R2: 2sc into the next 5 sts, sc into the next 5 sts. =15

R3: sc into each st around. =15

R4: *inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around until 1 st remains, sc into the last st. =8

Stuff the nose with fiberfill. Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and whip stitch around to close the hole. Weave in the end.

Chin:

R1: Go back to R15 and insert the hook into the bottom right corner of the open hole, yo and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st) and sc into the same space and around 13 more times. =14

R2: *inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =7

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and whip stitch around to close the hole. Weave in the end.

Hair/Wig:

with chocolate heather yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: 2sc BLO into each st around. =16

R3: *2sc BLO into the next st, sc BLO into the next st. Repeat from the * around. Sl st to the 1st st of the round. =24

R4: Hair Strand #1: ch 17, sc into the 3rd ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 chs, sl st to the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next 4 chs. sl st to the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next 2 chs, sl st to the next st on the circle. Continue with the 2nd hair strand below.

Hair Strand #2: ch 17, sc into the 3rd ch from the hook, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next 5 chs, sl st to the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next 4 chs, sl st to the next st on the circle. Continue with the 3rd hair strand below.

Hair Strand #3: ch 17, sc into the 3rd ch from the hook, sc into the next 5 chs, sl st into the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next 4 chs, sl st to the next ch, ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 2 chs, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next ch, sc into the next ch, sl st to the next st on the circle.

Repeat Hair Strands #1, #2 and #3 until there are 14 hair strands total. Continue with the bangs below.

Bangs: *ch 6, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and into each ch across, sl st to the next st on the circle. Repeat from the * 9 more times. =24 hair strands total

After completing the hair strands and bangs, continue working in the exposed front loops on the circle in a spiral until you get to the center.

ch 6, sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into the next 3 chs, hd

ch 6, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 4 chs, sl st to the closest FLO from R3 on the circle, sl st into the next FLO on the circle. *ch 6, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the next 4 chs, sl st to the next FLO on the circle, sl st into the next FLO on the circle. Repeat from the * working in a spiral around until all of the remaining exposed FLO sts are worked into.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Attach the hair to the head after sewing on the ears.

Start by placing a pin through the top, center of the wig and then through the top, center of the head with the bangs at the front. Continue with the sides and use pins to hold in place. Place one longer hair strand in front of the ear and then continue around the side and the back to the other side and end with a long hair strand on the other side of the ear. Part the front, arrange the bangs and pin. Use fabric glue to secure the hair strands. Pin after gluing and remove the pins after the glue has dried.

Sew the head to the neck of the body.

Ear: (Make 2)

with acorn yarn:

R1: Make a loose slip knot or a magic ring, ch 3 and put 7 tc into the middle (into the loose slip knot or magic ring), ch 3 and sl st into the middle. =7

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: ch 1, sc around the ear 14 times. =14

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch, make an invisible join and sew to the head four stitches away from the eyes.

Foot and Leg: (Make 2)

with acorn yarn:

R1: ch 11 (image 1), 3sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into the next 8 chs, 3sc into the last ch. (image 2) Do not turn the work. Continue by working down the other side of the chs (image 3), sc into the next 8 chs. (image 4) =22

Continue by working in a spiral, in the round and mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.

R2: sc into the next st, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 10 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 9 sts. =24

R3: sc into the next 13 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 9 sts. =23

R4: sc into the next 12 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 7 sts. =21

R5: sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 4 sts. =16

Weave in the end and flip right side out.

R6: sc into the next 6 sts, (inv sc dec) x5. =11

Start stuffing the foot with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern.

R7-R15: sc into each st around. =11

Leg 1: R16: sc into the next 10 sts, mark the 10th st with the st marker, sc into the next st. =11

Leg 2: R16: sc into the next 4 sts, mark the 4th st with the st marker, sc into the next 7 sts. =11

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end but do not remove the stitch markers.

Shoe: (Make 2)

with baby green yarn:

R1: ch 14, 3sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into each ch across until 1 ch remains, 3sc into the last ch. Do not turn the work. Working up the other side of the ch, sc across. =28

Continue by working in a spiral, in the round and mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.

R2: sc into the next st, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 13 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 12 sts. =30

R3: sc into the next 16 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 12 sts. =29

R4: sc into the next 15 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 10 sts. =27

R5: sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 8 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 7 sts. =22

Flip right side out and weave in the end.

R6: sc into the next 6 sts, (inv sc dec) x8. =14

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.

Body And Neck:

Hold leg 1 next to leg 2 with the feet facing away from you and the stitch markers together in the middle.

with baby green yarn:

(Keep the tail end long enough to sew the gap between the legs closed.)

R17: Starting on the right leg, insert the hook into the marked st (image 1), yo with the baby green yarn (image 2) and pull up a loop (image 3), ch 1 (does not count as a st) (image 4), sc into the same st (image 5) and mark this st with the st marker (it is the new beginning of the round) (image 6), ch 1 (image 7), sc into the marked st on the left leg (image 8), remove this st marker (image 9),

sc into the next 10 sts on the left leg (image 1), ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts on the right leg. (image 2 and 3) =24

R18: sk the ch 1, sc into the next st, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 11 sts, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts. =26

Pull the tail end through the gap between the legs.

R19-R21: sc into each st around. =26

R22: Take the hook out of the working yarn and drop the baby green yarn but keep it at the front of the work. Insert the hook into the BLO of the next st, yo with the acorn yarn and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc BLO into the same st (mark this st with a new st marker) and sc BLO into the next 25 sts. =26

with the acorn yarn:

R23: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 11 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts. =24

Weave in the tail end of the acorn yarn and start stuffing the body with polyester fiberfill. Continue stuffing the body while continuing with the pattern

R24: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 10 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =22

R25: sc into the next 7 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 9 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =20

R26-R27: sc into each st around. =20

R28: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x2. =16

R29: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next st, (inv sc dec) x2. =12

R30: inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =10

R31: sc into each st around. =10

Cut the acorn yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.

Go back to R22 and put the baby green working loop back on the hook. Continue with R22 below.

with the baby green yarn:

R22: Insert the hook into the exposed FLO of R22 (image 2) and make a sc (image 3), sc FLO into each st around. =26

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.

Fixing The Leg Gap:

Use the tail end from the sapphire yarn to sew the gap between the legs closed.

Hand and Arm: (Make 2)

with acorn yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2-R4: sc into each st around. =8

Weave in the end and flip right side out.

R5: Cluster into the next st, sc into the next st, pop the cluster out to the right side to make the thumb, sc into the next 6 sts. =8

R6: inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =6

R7: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. =8

R8: sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 5 sts. =9

Start stuffing the hand and arm with polyester fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern.

R9-R11: sc into each st around. =9

R12: sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =8

R13: sc into each st around. =8

R14: sc into the next 4 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =7

R15: sc into each st around. =7

R16: inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =6

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch made and sew to the doll three rows down at the neck.

Pants:

with denim heather yarn:

R1: ch 20, sl st to the 1st ch, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into each ch around. =20

R2-R3: sc into each st around. =20

Flip the wrong side out.

R4: sl st to the 1st st of the last round, ch 1, turn the work, sc FLO into the same st (mark this st with the st marker) and sc FLO into each st around. =20

R5-R6: sc into each st around. =20

R7: *sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =15

R8-R20: sc into each st around. =15

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join. Weave in the ends. Set this leg to the side.

Make another leg of the pants by repeating R1-R20 and then continue below. Do not cut the yarn and do not remove the hook or the stitch marker.

Hold the first leg of the pants to the left of the second leg of the pants.

R21: sc into the next 15 sts on the left leg of the pants (images 1 and 2), continue onto the second leg of the pants and sc into the next 15 sts. (images 3 and 4) =30

R22-R26: sc into each st around. =30

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the ends. Roll the cuff up at the bottom of the pants.

Shirt:

with baby green yarn:

Row 1: ch 29, sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and into each ch across. =28

Row 2-Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn the work, sc into the same st and into each st across. =28

Row 4: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 13 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 5 sts. =26

Row 5: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 5 sts. =24

Row 6-Row 7: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into each st across. =24

Row 8: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into the next 5 sts. =22

Row 9: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into each st across. =22

Row 10: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into the next 4 sts, ch 6, sk 4, sc into the next 5 sts, ch 6, sk 4, sc into the next 4 sts. =26

Row 11: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st and into the next 3 sts, sc into the next 6 chs, sc into the next 5 sts, sc into the next 6 chs, sc into the next 5 sts. =26

Border:

(RS) ch 1 (mark this ch with a st marker for later) (image 1), sc down the left side (image 2), ch 1, sc across the bottom, (image 3), ch 1, sc up the right side. (image 4)

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and weave in the ends. Do not remove the stitch marker.

Sleeves:

with baby green yarn:

R1: Insert the hook into a corner of the arm hole, yo (image 1) and pull up a loop (image 2), ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st and into each st around. (images 3, 4, 5 and 6) =13

R2-R11: sc into each st around. =13

R12: sl st to the 1st st of the last round (image 2), ch 1 (image 3), turn the work (image 4), sc BLO into the same st (image 5) and sc BLO into each st around. (image 6) =13

R13-R14: sc into each st around. =13

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join. Flip the cuff down.

Follow R1-R14 for the second sleeve.

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join. Flip the cuff down.

Collar:

with baby green yarn:

Row 1: Insert the hook into the marked st on the shirt (image 2), yo and pull up a loop (image 3), ch 3 (image 4), tc into the same st, dc into the next st, hdc across until 2 sts remain, dc into the next st, 2tc into the last st. =29

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and weave in the ends.

Add beads or small buttons to the shirt. Sew the shirt closed if using beads or buttons that are too small to hold the shirt closed.

Neck Tie:

Go to the notes section for tips on tunisian crochet.

with mint green yarn:

Row 1: Forward Pass: ch 3, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, pick up a loop in each ch across. =3 loops