Sillie The Sprite: Elf Crochet Amigurumi Pattern!
Hello to you all! I am delighted to be back on the Clover Blog with another character pattern from the Alex In Yarnder Land Series! I’m Alex, the crochet and tunisian crochet designer, tutorial maker and storyteller from the With Alex Blog. I have already introduced Alex, Blue, Aurora, The Fates, Sir Basil and Rumpelstilskein but today I am introducing Sillie the Sprite Elf! Yarnder Land is full of characters, some are nice and some are evil, but Sillie is a mystery! This cunning and charming villain loves to use his power of illusions to trick others. He seems innocent and sweet but his actions will show his true nature.
“Sillie can be charming but can he be redeemed? Or is he as evil as the Rumpelstilskein?”
Sillie the Sprite Elf wears a kilt to show his pride for his ancestors but what he doesn’t allow others to know is that he is an orphan, living by himself. Outsiders see a beautiful castle that is filled with other elves and Sillie’s sisters but in reality he only pretends to be a king in a castle that doesn’t exist and a family that left a long time ago. The crown on his head isn’t even real, but merely another illusion. Sillie’s castle can be seen on the hilltop, surrounded by lightning, but no thunder or rain will follow. Like the castle, its inhabitants and his crown, the lightning is only another one of his favorite illusions. For more information on the Alex In Yarnder Land Series, to find the links to the free patterns and to find the links to the character introduction short stories, visit the With Alex Blog.
Sillie the Sprite Elf wears a golden crown, a red and green kilt, brown boots, a dark green, long sleeved shirt and a dark red bow tie. Antler peek out from his long, silver hair that is separated in the front and braided into two long braids.
For this design, I used my Clover Amour Crochet Hook for the majority of the pattern and I used my Clover Tunisian Crochet Hook for the kilt. I used Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted in Beet, Silver Grey, Race Car Red, Glow White, Dijon, Black, Iron, Cream and Hunter Green. Uptown Worsted is a worsted weight yarn that is 100% anti pilling acrylic yarn.
Difficulty: intermediate/advanced
Size: 15 in tall
MATERIALS:
- Clover Amour 4.0mm Crochet Hook
- Clover Tunisian 5.0mm Crochet hook
- Universal Yarn (Uptown Worsted)
- Cream
- Hunter Green
- Iron
- Black
- Glow White
- Race Car Red
- Beet
- Dijon
- Silver Grey
- polyester fiberfill
- Stitch Markers
- Patchwork Scissors
- Darning Needle
- safety eyes (size 12 mm)
- fabric glue
- pins
ABBREVIATIONS:
- sc: single crochet
- 2sc: single crochet increase
- 3sc: single crochet increase of 2
- 4sc: single crochet increase of 3
- inv sc dec: invisible single crochet decrease
- sc2tog: single crochet decrease
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sl st: slip stitch
- ch: chain
- sk: skip
- yo: yarn over
- yu: yarn under
- flo: front loop only
- blo: back loop only
- hdc: half double crochet
- 2hdc: half double crochet increase
- dc: double crochet
- 2dc: double crochet increase of 1
- 3dc: double crochet increase of 2
- tc: triple crochet
- 2tc: triple crochet increase
- tks: tunisian knit stitch
NOTES:
- Gauge is not important. See note section for more information.
- Some photo tutorials in this pattern are a different color to be seen better and some photo tutorials in this pattern are from other amigurumi doll patterns I have in the “Alex In Yarnder Land” series, but they teach the same things!
SPECIAL STITCHES:
invisible single crochet decrease (inv sc dec): insert the hook into the front loop only of the next 2 stitches (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)
single crochet (sc): insert the hook into the next stitch (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)
invisible join: Skip the stitch next to the last stitch made and insert the needle through the next stitch (image 2), pull through and insert the needle into the back loop only of the last stitch made (image 3) and pull through.
cluster: *Yarn over and insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat from the * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all of the loops on the hook.
VIDEO TUTORIALS:
- yarn under single crochet for amigurumi
- invisible join
- inv sc dec
- tunisian crochet
TIPS:
- This pattern is worked in a continuous round (in a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.
- No gauge for this pattern but make sure to stay consistent with your stitches.
- You will need more than one stitch marker.
- Crochet the kilt before stuffing the body. If already stuffed, take some of the stuffing out while crocheting the kilt, if needed.
- Use the handle of the crochet hook or a chopstick to help with stuffing the doll with fiberfill.
- Tunisian Crochet
- The kilt is made in tunisian crochet by crocheting two flat panels and then seaming them up the sides.
- The pattern is worked flat with the right side of the work facing.
- At the beginning of each row, the first stitch is on the hook and counts as a Tunisian knit stitch.
- Do not turn your work at the beginning of each row. Each row is worked from right to left (forward pass) and then from left to right (return pass).
- Stuff the body after crocheting the kilt of take some of the stuffing out if needed, while crocheting the kilt.
HOW TO WORK INTO THE LAST STITCH OF THE TUNISIAN CROCHET ROWS:
- Counts as a tunisian knit stitch or tks.
- Tilt the work toward you and look for the last 2 vertical bars at the end of the row (image 1).
- Insert the hook under these last 2 vertical bars (image 2).
- Yarn over (image 3), and pull up a loop (image 4).
PATTERN:
HEAD:
with cream yarn:
R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8
Pull on the tail end to close the hole.
R2: 2sc into each st around. =16
R3: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next st. Repeat from the * around. =24
R4: sc into the next 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sc into the next 8 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sc into the next 6 sts. =24
R5: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. Repeat from the * around. (The chs count as sts but work into the BLO of each ch. ) =32
R6-R8: sc into each st around. =32
Weave in the end and flip right side out. Start stuffing the head with polyester fiberfill.
R9: sc into the next 16 sts, mark the middle of the 16th st with a new st marker, sc into the next 5 sts, mark the middle of the 5th st with another new st marker, sc into the next 11 sts. (The two new st markers are marking where the eyes will go later.) =32
R10: sc into each st around. =32
R11: sc into the next 12 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 8 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 8 sts. =36
R12-R13: sc into each st around. =36
Take the 2 stitch markers out of R9 and replace them with safety eyes.
Continue stuffing the head as you continue the pattern.
R14: sc into the next 12 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 8 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 8 sts. =32
R15: *sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =24
R16: *sc into the next st, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =16
R17: inv sc dec, *sc into the next st, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around until 2 sts remain, inv sc dec. =10
Cut the yarn but leave the tail end long enough to sew to the body, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join. Finish stuffing and shaping the head.
Add eyebrows, a nose, mouth, details to the eyes and blush to the cheeks.
ANTLERS (make 2):
Insert the hook into the bottom right corner of one of the holes left from R4. (image 1)
R1: Pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into the same st and around five more times. =6 (image 2)
R2: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. =8
Weave in the end and stuff the antler with fiberfill as you continue with the pattern.
R3-R10: sc into each st around. =8
R11: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc nto the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st. =12
R12: sc into the next 6 sts. =6 (image 1, 2, & 3)
Continue to divide the two parts of the antler by only working into these 6 stitches. (image 4, 5, & 6)
R13-R18: sc into each st around. =6
R19: *inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =3
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and whip stitch around to close the hole.
Make the second part to the antler by inserting the hook into an unworked stitch from R12.
R12: Pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as.a st), sc into the same st, sc into the remaining 5 unworked sts. =6
Weave in the end and continue working around in these 6 stitches.
R13-R18: sc into each st around. =6
R19: *inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =3
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and whip stitch around to close the hole.
Weave in the ends.
EARS (make 2):
with cream yarn:
R1: Make a loose slip knot or a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as a st), (sc, hdc, 2dc, 2tc, 2dc, hdc, sc, sl st) into the loose slip knot or magic ring. =11
Pull on the tail end to close the hole.
R2: 2sc into the next st, 2hdc into the next st, 2dc into the next 2 sts, 2tc into the next st (image 1), tc into the next st (image 2), go back 1 st (image 3) and sl st into the previous tc (image 4 & 5), tc into the same st (image 6 & 7), 2dc into the next 2 sts, 2hdc into the next st, 2sc into the next st, sl st into the loose slip knot or magic ring. =22
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and sew to the head, 4 stitches away from the eyes.
BOOT/LEG (make 2):
with iron yarn:
R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 10 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =10
Pull on the tail end to close the hole.
R2: 2sc into each st around. =20
R3: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next st. Repeat from the * around. =30
R4: sc BLO into each st around. Mark the last FLO with a new st marker. =30 (image 1)
R5: inv sc dec, sc into the next 11 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 11 sts, inv sc dec. =26
Weave in the end and flip right side out.
R6: sc into the next 9 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 9 sts. =22
R7: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 7 sts. =18
R8: sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 5 sts. =14
Start stuffing the boot with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern
R9-R11: sc into each st around. =14
R12: Take the hook out of the working yarn and drop the iron yarn but keep it at the front of the work. Insert the hook into the BLO of the next st (image 2), yo with the cream yarn (image 3) and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc BLO into the same st (mark this st with a new st marker) (image 4) and sc BLO into the next 13 sts. =14 (image 5 & 6)
Weave in the cream yarn end.
with the cream yarn:
R13: inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =11
R14-R24: sc into each st around. =11
FIRST LEG:
R25: sc into the next 8 sts, mark the 8th st with the st marker, sc into the next 3 sts. Keep the st marker where it is. =11
Cut the cream yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end. Do not remove the stitch marker.
Go back to R12 and put the working loop back on the hook. Continue with R12 below.
TOP OF THE BOOT:
with the iron yarn:
R12: sc FLO into each st around. =14
Cut the iron yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.
BOTTOM OF THE BOOT:
Go back to R4.
R4: Hold the boot upside down, insert the hook into the marked st from R4, yo with iron yarn and pull up a loop, ch 1, sl st FLO into each st around, sl st to the 1st sl st of the round. =30
Cut the yarn, pull it through the last stitch and weave in the ends.
Finish stuffing the leg with fiberfill.
SECOND LEG:
R25: sc into the next 3 sts, mark the 3rd st with the st marker, sc into the next 8 sts. Keep the st marker where it is. =11
Cut the cream yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end. Do not remove the stitch marker.
Go back to R12 and put the working loop back on the hook. Continue with R12 below.
TOP OF THE BOOT:
with the iron yarn:
R12: sc FLO into each st around. =14
Cut the iron yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.
BOTTOM OF THE BOOT:
Go back to R4.
R4: Hold the boot upside down, insert the hook into the marked st from R4, yo with iron yarn and pull up a loop,
ch 1, sl st FLO into each st around, sl st to the 1st sl st of the round. =30
Cut the yarn, pull it through the last stitch and weave in the ends.
Finish stuffing the leg with fiberfill.
BODY AND NECK:
Hold leg 1 next to leg 2 with the feet facing away from you and the stitch markers in the middle.
with hunter green yarn:
Leave the tail end long enough to sew the gap between the legs closed.
R26: Starting on leg 1, insert the hook into the marked st (image 1), yo with the hunter green yarn (image 2) and pull up a loop (image 3), ch 1 (does not count as a st) (image 4), sc into the same st (image 5) and mark this st with the st marker (it is the new beginning of the round) (image 6), ch 1 (image 7), sc into the marked st on leg 2 (image 8), remove this st marker (image 9),
sc into the next 10 sts on leg 2 ( left leg) (image 1), ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts on leg 1. (right leg) (image 2 and 3) =24
R27: sk the ch 1, sc into the next st, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 11 sts, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts. =26
Pull the tail end through the gap between the legs.
R28-R31: sc into each st around. =26
R32: sc BLO into each st around. Mark the last FLO with a new st marker. (image 2) =26
R33: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 11 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts. =24
R34: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 10 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =22
R35: sc into the next 7 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 9 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =20
R36-R38: sc into each st around. =20
R39: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x2. =16
Start stuffing the body with polyester fiberfill. Continue stuffing the body while continuing with the pattern.
R40: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next st, (inv sc dec) x2. =12
R41: Take the hook out of the working yarn and drop the hunter green yarn but keep the dropped yarn at the front of the work. Insert the hook into the BLO of the next st, yo with the cream yarn and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc BLO into the same st (mark this st with a new st marker) and sc BLO into the next 11 sts. =12
with the cream yarn:
R42: inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =10
Weave in the tail end of the cream yarn.
R43: sc into each st around. =10
Cut the cream yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.
SHIRT’S NECKLINE:
Go back to R41.
R41: Insert the hook into the hunter green working loop, sc FLO into each st around. =12
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.
FIXING THE LEG GAP:
Use the tail end from the hunter green yarn to sew the gap between the legs closed.
KILT:
Hold the doll upside down and go back to the marked stitch from R32.
R32: Sk 2 sts and move the st marker to the 3rd st. This is now the beginning of the round. Insert the hook into the marked st, yo with race car red and pull up a loop, ch 1, sc FLO into the same st and sc FLO into each st around. =26
R33: *sc into the next 3 sts, 3sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 4sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 3sc into the next st, sc into the next 3 sts. Repeat from the * one time but mark the 1st st of the repeat with a new st marker. =40
Weave in the end of the race car red yarn.
STARTING THE ROWS FOR TUNISIAN CROCHET:
Switch the hook to the size H 5.00 mm Tunisian crochet hook.
FIRST PANEL:
Row 34: Forward Pass: sl st into the next st (image 2), the loop on the hook counts as the 1st st of the row, pick up a loop into the next 19 sts across. (image 3) =20 If this is difficult, take some of the stuffing out of the doll.
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook. (image 4)
Row 35: Forward Pass: tks with race car red (loop on the hook), *tks into the next 2 sts with race car red, tks into the next 2 sts with beet. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st with race car red. =20 loops
Carry the yarn when needed.
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Row 36: Repeat Row 35.
Row 37: Forward Pass: tks with race car red (loop on the hook), tks into the next 2 sts with beet, tks into the next 2 sts with hunter green. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st with race car red. =20 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Row 38: Repeat Row 37.
Row 39-Row 42: Repeat Rows 35-38 one time.
BIND OFF:
Insert the hook into the stitch just like for a tks.
ch 1 with beet, insert the hook into the next st, yo with beet, and pull through the loops on the hook, *insert the hook into the next st, yo with hunter green and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with hunter green yarn and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with beet and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with beet and pull through the loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 2 sts remain on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with race car red and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the last st, yo with race car red and pull through the loops on the hook. =20
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and weave in the ends.
2ND PANEL:
Hold the doll upside down.
Row 34: Insert the hook into the marked st from R33 and pull up a loop with race car red (mark this st with the st marker), pick up a loop into the next 19 sts across. =20 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Row 35: Forward Pass: tks with race car red (loop on the hook), *tks into the next 2 sts with beet, tks into the next 2 sts with race car red. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st with race car red. =20 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Row 36: Repeat Row 35.
Row 37: Forward Pass: tks with race car red (loop on the hook), *tks into the next 2 sts with hunter green, tks into the next 2 sts with beet. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st with race car red. =20 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Row 38: Repeat Row 37.
Row 39-Row 42: Repeat Rows 35-38 one time.
BIND OFF:
ch 1 with hunter green, insert the hook into the next st, yo with hunter green, and pull through the loops on the hook, *insert the hook into the next st, yo with beet and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with beet and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with hunter green and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with hunter green and pull through the loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 2 sts remain on the hook, insert the hook into the next st, yo with race car red and pull through the loops on the hook, insert the hook into the last st, yo with race car red and pull through the loops on the hook. =20
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and weave in the ends.
Sew the front panel to the back panel down both sides.
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
HAND AND ARM (MAKE 2 OF EACH):
with cream yarn:
R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8
Pull on the tail end to close the hole.
R2-R4: sc into each st around. =8
Weave in the end and flip right side out.
R5: Cluster into the next st, sc into the next st, pop the cluster out to the right side to make the thumb, sc into the next 6 sts. =8
R6: inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =6
R7: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. =8
R8: sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 4 sts. Insert the hook into the next st, yu and pull up a loop, yo with hunter green and pull through the loops on the hook. =9
Start stuffing the hand and arm with polyester fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern.
with hunter green yarn:
R9: sc into each st around. =9
R10: sc BLO into each st around. Mark the last FLO with a new st marker. =9
Cut the cream yarn and weave in the ends.
R11-R15: sc into each st around. =9
R16: sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =8
R17: sc into each st around. =8
R18: sc into the next 4 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =7
R19: sc into each st around. =7
R20: inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =6
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and go back to R10.
SLEEVE CUFF:
with hunter green yarn:
R10: Hold the arm upside down and insert the hook into the marked st. Pull up a loop with hunter green yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc FLO into the same st and sc FLO into each st around. =9
R11-R12: sc into each st around. =9
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join before sewing the arm to the doll three rows down at the neck. Weave in the ends.
HAIR/WIG:
with silver grey yarn:
R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8
Pull on the tail end to close the hole.
R2: 2sc BLO into each st around. =16
R3: *2sc BLO into the next st, sc BLO into the next st. Repeat from the * around. Sl st to the first st of the round. =24
R4: *ch 45 (image 1), 2sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into each ch across (image 2), sl st to the next st of the round on the circle. (image 3) (= 45 sts)
Repeat from the * until there are 12 hair strands. (image 4)
*ch 35 (image 1), 2sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into each ch across (image 2 and 3), sl st to the next st of the round on the circle. (image 4) (= 35 sts)
Repeat from the * around until there are 24 hair strands.
Continue working in the exposed front loops on the circle in a spiral until you get to the center.
*ch 35, 2sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into each ch across, sl st to the nearest FLO from the previous round, sl st FLO into the next st. Repeat from the * working in a spiral around until all of the remaining exposed FLO sts are worked into and you have reached the center. = 36 hair strands total
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
ATTACHING HAIR TO THE HEAD:
Start by placing a pin through the top, center of the wig and then through the top, center of the head.
Arrange the 12 longer hair strands in front, 6 on each side. (image 1) Continue with the back and use pins to hold the bottom layer of hair strands in place. (image 2 & 3) Continue around the sides but do not glue the longer strands and do not cover the antler holes. (image 4)
Use fabric glue to secure the hair strands. Pin after gluing and remove the pins after the glue has dried. After attaching the wig, braid 6 strands on each side of Sillie’s face.
Sew the head to the neck of the body.
CROWN:
with dijon yarn:
Row 1: ch 45, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, *sc into the next ch, hdc into the next ch, ch 2, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc into the next ch, sc into the next ch. Repeat from the * across. =44
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch, and seam the two ends of the crown together before weaving in the yarn ends.
BELT:
with iron yarn:
Row 1: ch 31, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into each ch across until 1 ch remains. Insert the hook into the last ch, yu and pull up a loop, yo with race car red and pull through the loops on the hook. =30
Row 2: ch 1, turn the work, sl st into each st across. = 30
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and sew to the doll at the top of the kilt.
BOW TIE:
with beet yarn:
Row 1: ch 6, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into each ch across. =5
Row 2: ch 1, turn the work, sc into the same st, sc into each st across. =5
Row 3: Repeat Row 2.
Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch, weave both ends to the middle in the back and then wrap around the middle several times. Tie the ends together and glue to the shirt at the neck.
THE END!
I would love to see your Alex In Yarnder Land Dolls! Tag @_with_alex and use #crochetingwithalex on Instagram so I can see and share your projects! Sillie’s Introduction Story will be available on Monday on my personal blog! Join the Alex In Yarnder Land Facebook Group to keep up to date on all things Alex In Yarnder Land!
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