Hello to you all! I’m Alex, the crochet and tunisian crochet designer behind With Alex and I’m so excited to be back on the Clover blog! Today I have a new amigurumi crochet pattern, the Alex In Yarnder Land Doll! Alex is absolutely adorable and so much fun to make!

Introducing Alex In Yarnder Land! She is the first character that I’m sharing from a new series of amigurumi that I will be sharing throughout the year. Alex is a crochet designer that lives in a small, charming town with her cat, Ziggy. She is just a normal girl, doing normal things until she finds a magical world, Yarnder Land, and she goes on adventures and meets different animals, creatures, and people along the way.

Some people have never heard of the word “yonder” but I have heard it all of my life. Anytime anyone needed to tell someone where something was, I would hear, “it’s over yonder!” which meant that it was over there, somewhere. This word has inspired me to create a world where there are magic and mysteries, adventures and fun. I can’t wait to start sharing my short stories about Alex’s adventures in Yarnder Land. First, I will introduce characters from this new and exciting world and then I will start sharing the stories, very soon.

“Alex uses her hook to,

crochet, crochet something new.

Her designs are so so fine,

must be made with magic twine!

Solving mysteries, stopping crime,

and sometimes going back in time.

Her story isn’t just crochet,

she meets gnomes along the way.

Elves, fairies and ghosts too,

and even a boy named Blue.”

Alex is wearing a beautiful, ruffled pink dress that can be taken off and easily slid back on. First, place the feet through the top of the dress and slide the dress up the body. Halfway up, push the arms of the doll through the arm holes and then slide the dress the rest of the way up.

Underneath, Alex is wearing a cute tank top in her favorite color, pink.

Alex’s boots can be taken off and put on after her dress. Slide the boot on the foot sideways and then straighten. The buttons are very cute but only for decoration.

Like me, Alex is a crochet designer and also like me, I keep things in my boots. She has a crochet hook!

Alex’s hair is made from first crocheting a circle and then crocheting strands of hair in a spiral. After making the wig, it is attached with fabric glue. Her hair is wavy and so pretty!

She also has details on her face. Eyebrows, details to her eyes, a nose and blush have been added to her cheeks. These details are a lot of fun to do!

Alex was made using Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted yarn. I love working with this yarn. It frogs well and it is also so soft, plus there are a lot of colors to choose from and they are all so beautiful! Uptown Worsted yarn is 100% anti pilling acrylic, 100 grams and 180 yards.

For this design I have used a special single crochet. I do not always use this single crochet but for this design it looks beautiful. A yarn under is used instead of the first yarn over. This makes the top of the stitches smaller, creating closer stitches with less gaps and spaces between. I love the look of this single crochet for amigurumi!

For more information on the Alex In Yarnder Land: Yarn Tales With Alex series, click here.

Let’s get started!

Alex In Yarnder Land Amigurumi Pattern

Difficulty

Advanced/Intermediate

Size

11″ tall

Materials

Size G 4.00 mm Clover Amour crochet hook
Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted in Acorn (1), Black (1), Donahue (gray) (1), 310 Baby Pink (1), Linen (1), Glow White (1)
Polyester Fiberfill
Stitch markers
Scissors
Darning needle
Buttons (½” or 12mm)
Safety eyes (size 12 mm)
Fabric glue
Pins
Jewelry Wire or 2 ” Eye Pin

Abbreviations

sc: single crochet
2sc: single crochet increase
inv sc dec: invisible single crochet decrease
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
sk: skip
yo: yarn over
yu: yarn under
FLO: front loop only
BLO: back loop only
dc: double crochet
3dc: double crochet increase of 2

Gauge

Gauge is not important. See note section for more information.

Notes, Tips, And Tutorials

Special Stitches:

Invisible single crochet decrease (inv sc dec): insert the hook into the front loop only of the next 2 stitches (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)

single crochet (sc): insert the hook into the next stitch (image 2), yarn under (image 3) and pull up a loop (image 4), yarn over (image 5) and pull through all of the loops on the hook. (image 6)

invisible join: Skip the stitch next to the last stitch made and insert the needle through the next stitch (image 2), pull through and insert the needle into the back loop only of the last stitch made (image 3) and pull through.

cluster: *Yarn over and insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat from the * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all of the loops on the hook.

Video Tutorials:

Tips:

This pattern is worked in a continuous round (in a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.
No gauge for this pattern but make sure to stay consistent with your stitches.
You will need more than one stitch marker.
Do not overstuff the foot or it will not fit in the boot.
A great tip is to make the boots first and then as you stuff the foot and leg, check periodically to make sure it fits in the boot. You can also stretch the boot slightly.
To put the boots on: Turn the foot sideways, slide in and then turn the foot back.
Use the handle of the crochet hook or a chopstick to help with stuffing the doll with fiberfill.

The Pattern

Please read all of the notes before beginning this pattern.

This pattern is worked in a continuous round (in a spiral) unless otherwise noted. Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker.

Boot: (Make 2)

Start with black yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 10 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =10

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: 2sc into each st around. =20

R3: 2sc into the next st, *sc into the next st, 2sc into the next st. Repeat from the * around until 1 st remains. Insert the hook into the last st, yu and pull up a loop, yo with gray yarn (drop the black yarn but bring it to the front of the work) and pull through the two loops to complete the sc. =30

with gray yarn:

R4: sc BLO into each st around. =30

R5: inv sc dec, sc into the next 11 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 11 sts, inv sc dec. =26

Weave in the two ends and flip right side out.

R6: sc into the next 9 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 9 sts. =22

R7: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 7 sts. =18

R8: sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x4, sc into the next 5 sts. =14

R9-R14: sc into each st around. =14

R15: sc into each st around until 1 st remains. Insert the hook into the last st, yu and pull up a loop, yo with pink yarn (drop the gray yarn but bring it to the front of the work) and pull through the two loops to complete the sc. =14

with pink yarn:

R16: sc BLO into each st around. =14

R17-R18: sc into each st around. =14

Cut the pink yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the two pink ends.

Pick up the gray yarn and continue with R16 below.

with the gray yarn:

R16: Insert the hook through the 1st FLO next to the working yarn,

yo and pull up a loop, ch 1 and sc FLO into the same st and into each st around. =14

Cut the gray yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.

Pick up the black yarn and continue with R4 below.

with the black yarn:

R4: Flip the boot upside down, insert the hook into the FLO of the next st to the left of the working yarn,

yo and pick up a loop, sl st FLO into each st around, sl st to the 1st sl st of the round. =30

Cut the black yarn, pull it through the last stitch and weave in the ends.

Lightly stuff the toe of the boot and shape it.

Sew two buttons onto each boot.

Foot and Leg: (Make 2)

with linen yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: sc into the next 3 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 3 sts. =10

R3: sc into the next 4 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 4 sts. =12

R4: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 10 sts, 2sc into the last st. =14

Weave in the end and flip right side out.

R5: sc into the next 5 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts, inv sc dec. =12

R6: inv sc dec, sc into the next 4 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 4 sts. =10

R7: sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec. =8

R8: sc into each st around. =8

Start stuffing the foot with polyester fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern.

R9: sc into the next 7 sts, 2sc into the last st. =9

R10: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 8 sts. =10

R11: sc into the next 9 sts, 2sc into the last st. =11

R12-R19: sc into each st around. =11

Left Leg: R20: sc into the next 10 sts, mark the 10th st with the st marker, sc into the next st. =11

Right Leg: R20: sc into the next 4 sts, mark the 4th st with the st marker, sc into the next 7 sts. =11

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and make an invisible join on both legs. Do not take out the stitch markers.

Body And Neck:

Hold the left leg next to the right leg with the feet facing away from you.

with pink yarn:

(Leave the tail end long enough to sew the gap between the legs closed.)

R21: Starting on the right leg, insert the hook into the marked st (image 1), yo with the pink yarn (image 2) and pull up a loop (image 3), ch 1 (does not count as a st) (image 4) sc into the same st and mark this st with a new st marker (it is the new beginning of the round) (image 5), take out the other st marker (image 6) ch 1 (image 7), sc into the marked st on the left leg (image 8), remove this st marker (image 9),

sc into the next 10 sts on the left leg (image 1), ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts on the right leg. (image 2 and 3) =24

R22: sk the ch 1, sc into the next st, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 11 sts, 2sc into the ch 1, sc into the next 10 sts. =26

Pull the tail end through the gap between the legs.

R23-R25: sc into each st around. =26

R26: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 11 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts. =24

R27: sc into the next 8 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 10 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =22

R28: sc into the next 7 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 9 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =20

R29-R30: sc into each st around. =20

R31: Take the hook out of the working yarn and drop the pink yarn but keep it at the front of the work. Insert the hook into the BLO of the next st, yo with the linen yarn and pull up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc BLO into the same st (mark this st with a new st marker) and sc BLO into the next 19 sts. =20

with linen yarn:

R32: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 5 sts, (inv sc dec) x2. =16

Weave in the tail end of the linen yarn and start stuffing the body with polyester fiberfill. Continue stuffing the body while continuing with the pattern.

R33: sc into the next 7 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next st, (inv sc dec) x2. =12

R34: inv sc dec, sc into the next 3 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =10

R35: sc into each st around. =10

Cut the linen yarn, pull it through the last stitch and make an invisible join before weaving in the end.

Go back to R31 and put the pink working loop back on the hook. Continue with R31 below.

with the pink yarn:

R31: sc FLO into each st around. =20

Do not cut the yarn. Make and attach the arms before continuing with the tank top straps for the body.

Hand and Arm: (Make 2)

with linen yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2-R4: sc into each st around. =8

Weave in the end and flip right side out.

R5: Cluster into the next st, sc into the next st, pop the cluster out to the right side to make the thumb, sc into the next 6 sts. =8

R6: inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =6

R7: 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. =8

R8: sc into the next 2 sts, 2sc into the next st, sc into the next 5 sts. =9

Start stuffing the hand and arm with polyester fiberfill and continue stuffing as you continue with the pattern.

R9-R13: sc into each st around. =9

R14: sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =8

R15: sc into each st around. =8

R16: sc into the next 4 sts, inv sc dec, sc into the next 2 sts. =7

R17: sc into each st around. =7

R18: inv sc dec, sc into the next 5 sts. =6

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch made and sew to the doll one row above the pink neckline of the tank top.

Tank Top Straps:

After attaching the arms and with the pink yarn:

R32: sl st into the next st, ch 7, sk back 6 sts (to the front of the doll) and sl st into the 6th st, sl st into the next 6 sts, ch 7, sk 4 sts, sl st into the next st.

Cut the pink yarn, pull it through the last stitch and weave in the end.

Fixing The Leg Gap:

Use the tail end from the pink yarn to sew the gap between the legs closed.

Head:

with linen yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: 2sc into each st around. =16

R3: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next st. Repeat from the * around. =24

R4: sc into each st around. =24

R5: *2sc into the next st, sc into the next 2 sts. Repeat from the * around. =32

R6-R8: sc into each st around. =32

Weave in the end and flip right side out. Start stuffing the head with polyester fiberfill.

R9: sc into the next 14 sts, mark the middle of the 14th st with a new st marker, sc into the next 5 sts, mark the middle of the 5th st with another st marker, sc into the next 13 sts. =32

R10: sc into each st around. =32

R11: sc into the next 10 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 8 sts, 2sc into the next 2 sts, sc into the next 10 sts. =36

R12-R13: sc into each st around. =36

Take the 2 stitch markers out of R9 and replace them with safety eyes.

Continue stuffing the head as you continue the pattern.

R14: sc into the next 10 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 8 sts, (inv sc dec) x2, sc into the next 10 sts. =32

R15: *sc into the next 2 sts, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =24

R16: *sc into the next st, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around. =16

R17: inv sc dec, *sc into the next st, inv sc dec. Repeat from the * around until 2 sts remain, inv sc dec. =10

Cut the yarn but leave the tail end long enough to sew to the body, pull through the last stitch made and make an invisible join. Finish stuffing and shaping the head.

Add eyebrows, a nose, mouth, details to the eyes and blush to the cheeks.

Hair/Wig:

with acorn yarn:

R1: Make a magic ring or a loose slip knot, ch 1 and put 8 sc into the magic ring or loose slip knot. =8

Pull on the tail end to close the hole.

R2: 2sc BLO into each st around. =16

R3: *2sc BLO into the next st, sc BLO into the next st. Repeat from the * around. Sl st to the first st of the round. =24

R4: *ch 40, 2sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into each ch across, sl st to the next st of the round on the circle. (= 40)

Repeat from the * around. = 24 hair strands

*ch 40, 2sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, sc into each ch across, sl st to the closest FLO from R3. (image 2, 3 and 4) Repeat from the * working in a spiral around until all of the remaining exposed FLO sts are worked into. = 48 hair strands total

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Attach the hair to the head:

Start by placing a pin through the top, center of the wig and then through the top, center of the head. Continue with the back and use pins to hold in place. Continue around the sides. Part the front and pin the bottom layer. Use fabric glue to secure the hair strands. Pin after gluing and remove the pins after the glue has dried. After attaching the wig, twist each hair strand until wavy/curly.

Sew the head to the neck of the body.

Dress:

with pink yarn:

R1: ch 36, sl st to the 1st ch. =36

R2: sc into each ch around. =36

Flip right side out.

R3: sc into the next 5 sts, sk 8 (image 1), pinch these sts together with right side out (image 2), sc into the next 10 sts, sk 8, sc into the next 5 sts. =20

R4-R6: sc into each st around. =20

R7: sc into each st around, sl st to the 1st st of the round. =20

R8: ch 2 (does not count as a st), 3dc into the same st and into each st around, sl st to the 1st st of the round. =60

R9-R11: ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc into the same st and into each st around, sl st to the 1st st of the round. =60

R12: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc FLO into the same st and into each st around, sl st to the 1st st of the round. =60

Continuing into the BLO of the same round, ch 2, 3dc BLO into the same st and into each st around, sl st to the 1st st of the round. =180

Cut the yarn, pull through the last stitch and weave in the ends.

Crochet Hook:

Row 1: Thread yarn through the eye of the pin and tie a knot. Hold the tail end while holding the pin and place the hook under the pin (image 1), yu (image 2) and pull up a loop (image 3), ch 1 (image 4), *place the hook under the pin (image 5), yu (image 6) and pull up a loop (image 7), yo (image 8) and pull through the loops on the hook to complete the sc. (image 9)

Repeat from the * 7 more times. Cut the yarn, pull through the last st and bend the end to hold in place. Weave in the end and bend to look like a crochet hook.