Hello all! I’m Alex, the crochet and tunisian crochet designer behind With Alex, and I’m so excited to be back on the Clover Blog! Today I’m sharing my newest tunisian crochet design, the Double Brim Tunisian Beanie and I hope you all love it as much as I do!
The Double Brim Tunisian Beanie was inspired by the beautiful and extra warm beanies made on knitting machines. I’ve seen so many versions of this beanie that I needed to make my own version in tunisian crochet with my favorite stitch, the tunisian knit stitch. This pattern worked up super quick and I was so happy to have this one finished in time for a big snowstorm, and during the photo shoot, my Double Brim Tunisian Beanie definitely helped keep me warm and cozy in that beautiful, North Carolina winter wonderland.
This beanie is crocheted using only one main stitch, the tunisian knit stitch, and one decrease stitch. This makes the Double Brim Tunisian Beanie both easy and fun to crochet. Rows and rows of the same stitch make this pattern perfect for listening to a favorite movie or music. Plus, color changing yarn keeps this pattern fun and unexpected.
The Clover Interchangeable Tunisian Crochet Hook Set made designing this pattern a breeze, especially since each size uses a different size hook. I used the 16″ size cord, which made also made this project easy and fun to work on.
The Double Brim Tunisian Beanie is worked flat from the bottom up. After a certain amount of rows are worked, the work in progress is folded in half, to create the double brim, and then stitches are picked up, which secures the brim. After the brim is created, the body is crocheted before decreasing, closing the hole and seaming up the back to complete the beanie.
I used Lion Brand Mandala Sparkle to design the Double Brim Tunisian Beanie and I love how both Draco and Aquila worked up. Mandala Sparkle is a DK weight yarn, but out of experience I have found that some color ways do not gauge the same as others and hook sizes may need to be changed if needed to meet gauge. The fiber content is 94% acrylic and 6% metallic polyester and I suggest is substituting yarn to try to find a yarn that is both similar in weight and fiber content.
The Double Brim Tunisian Beanie has 3 different sizes and they all have instructions in the pattern below. My head has a circumference of 20.5 and I can comfortably wear both the teen and the adult sizes. The beanie does have quite a bit of stretch (check the sizes below) and will stretch out more over time.
Let’s get started!
Difficulty
Easy
Sizes
- Toddler: 17″-19″ circumference
- Child/Teen: 19″-21″ circumference
- Adult: 21″-23″ circuference
Materials
- Clover Interchangeable Tunisian Crochet Hook
- Baby/Toddler: Size H (5.0 mm)
- Child/Teen: Size I (5.5 mm)
- Adult: Size J (6.0 mm)
- DK Weight Yarn
- Mandala Sparkle: 1 skein (100g/328yds/300m/94% acrylic, 6% metallic polyester
- Clover Interchangeable Cord 16 – Art. No 3645
- Clover Interchangeable Cord Stopper – Art. No 3651
- Clover Darning Needle Set – Art. No 339
- Clover Patchwork Scissors (Small) – Art. No 493/CW
- Measuring tape
Gauge
- Baby/Toddler: 16 sts & 16 rows = 4 inches
- Child/Teen: 14 sts & 15 rows = 4 inches
- Adult: 13 sts & 14 rows = 4 inches
Abbreviations
- yo: yarn over
- ch: chain
- st(s): stitch(es)
- tks: tunisian knit stitch
- tks2tog: tunisian knit stitch decrease
Video Tutorials
Notes And Other Tutorials
- This pattern is worked flat with the right side of the work facing.
- At the beginning of each row, the first stitch is on the hook and counts as a Tunisian knit stitch.
- Do not turn your work at the beginning of each row. Each row is worked from right to left (forward pass) and then from left to right (return pass).
- Circumference of the hat will be smaller than the finished width, after it is seamed.
- There is a gauge for this hat but there are also measurements throughout the pattern.
- To finish this hat, you will close the hole at the top of the hat and then seam up the back.
How To Work Into The Last Stitch Of The Row:
The Pattern
The pattern is written for the adult size but the toddler and teen sizes are added in parentheses when needed.
Example: (toddler, teen)
R1: Forward Pass: ch 72, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, pick up a loop in the back hump of each ch across. =72 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
*Should measure approximately 20.5” (17.5”, 19”) long.
R2: Forward Pass: tks into each st across. =72 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R3-R22 (26, 24): Repeat R2.
*Should measure approximately 6.5” (6.25”, 6.5”) tall.
Lay flat, fold in half, bottom up, right side out and line up the stitches on both sides.
R23 (27, 25): Forward Pass: Insert the hook into the st across from the current st, yo and pull through both loops on the hook to create a sl st,
*insert the hook into the next st (just like for a tks) and insert the hook into the st on the opposite side, yo and pick up a loop.
Repeat from the * across. =72 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R24-R41: (R28-R48, R26-R44) Repeat R2.
*Should measure approximately 8.25” (8”, 8.25”) tall.
R42 (R49, R45): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 8 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =65 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R43 (R50, R46): Forward Pass: Repeat R2. =65 loops
R44 (R51, R47): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 7 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =58 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R45 (R52, R48): Forward Pass: Repeat R2. =58 loops
R46 (R53, R49): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 6 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =51 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R47 (R54, R50): Forward Pass: Repeat R2. =51 loops
R48 (R55, R51): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 5 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =44 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R49 (R56, R52): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 4 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =37 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R50 (R57, R53): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 3 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =30 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R51 (R58, R54): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next 2 sts, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =23 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R52 (R59, R55): Forward Pass: tks, *tks into the next st, tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =16 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
R53 (R60, R56): Forward Pass: tks, *tks2tog. Repeat from the * across until 1 st remains, tks into the last st. =9 loops
Return Pass: yo and pull through 1 loop on the hook, *yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across until 1 loop remains on the hook.
Bind Off:
*insert the hook into the next st just like for a tks, yo and pull through the loops on the hook. Repeat from the * across. =8 sts
*Should measure approximately 11” (10”, 11”) tall.
Close the hole at the top of the hat and then use the mattress seam or preferred seam to finish the beanie before weaving in all of the ends and adding a pom if you would like.
The end!
I would love to see your Double Brim Tunisian Beanies! Tag @_with_alex and use #crochetingwithalex on Instagram so I can see and share your projects.
Find With Alex on her Blog | Instagram | Facebook | YouTube | Pinterest | Ravelry
Stay connected with Clover on Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | Pinterest | YouTube | Ravelry