Sunrise Woven Wall Hanging – Mini Weaving Loom Project

Ashley Parker

4 years ago

Hi Everyone! I’m Ashley, the designer and maker behind The Loopy Lamb. I’m so excited to be invited back to the Clover blog to teach you all how to make this Sunrise Wall Hanging.

This is a weaving project that is accessible for beginners and will create a wall hanging that pictures a sun rising over the hills in the spring.

Materials:

Clover Mini Weaving Loom (single) – Art. No 3176
We Crochet Dishie Yarn in Swan (100% Cotton yarn, Worsted Weight)
We Crochet Dishie Yarn in Conch (100% Cotton yarn, Worsted Weight)
We Crochet Dishie Yarn in Kenai (100% Cotton yarn, Worsted Weight)
We Crochet Dishie Yarn in Verdigris (100% Cotton yarn, Worsted Weight)
We Crochet Preciosa Tonal Yarn in Summer Sky (100% Merino Wool, Worsted Weight)
Clover Mini Patchwork Scissors –Art. No 493/CW
7” long piece of 3/8” wooden dowl or a branch
7 – ½” Round Wooden Bead In Preferred Color
Clover Darning Needle Set – Art. No 339

Finished Size:

Approximately 9.25” long (excluding dowel and hanger) x 5” wide

Directions:

Set-up: Using the Dishie in Swan, set up the loom warp so you have 27 warp yarns.

How to do the Tabby Weave Stitch

Weaving Section 1 – Landscape Base: Before we start, we need to prepare the weft. We’ll be starting with We Crochet Dishie yarn in Kenai. Wind the weft with Kenai. We’re going to be using what’s called a Tabby weave for this wall hanging. Tabby Weave is done by weaving the yarn over the first yarn warp and under the next, repeating that motion across the loom. On your second row or return pass, you’ll go over the yarn warps you went under in the first row and then under the warps you went over in row one. Do 24 rows of Tabby Weave in Kenai.

Weaving Section 2 – Right Hill: In this section, we are going to start decreasing how many warp yarns we work to create the shaping for the right hill. We will continue to work with Dishie in Kenai. We will be working one less warp per row. I have included instructions with the warp numbers to assist you. If you find yourself running low on yarn, make sure to leave enough yarn to weave in your end and rewind your weft to continue weaving.

Rows 25 – 28: Tabby Weave over the first 13 warps

Rows 29 – 30: Tabby Weave over the first 12 warps.

Rows 31 – 32: Tabby Weave over the first 11 warps.

Rows 33 – 34: Tabby Weave over the first 10 warps.

Rows 35 – 36: Tabby Weave over the first 9 warps.

Rows 37 – 38: Tabby Weave over the first 8 warps.

Rows 39 – 42: Tabby Weave over the first 7 warps.

Rows 43 – 44: Tabby Weave over the first 6 warps.

Rows 45 – 46: Tabby Weave over the first 5 warps.

Rows 47 – 48: Tabby Weave over the first 4 warps.

Rows 49 – 50: Tabby Weave over the first 3 warps.

Rows 51 – 54: Tabby Weave over the first 2 warps.

Rows 55 – 6: Tabby Weave over the first warp. Finish off, leaving a long tail to weave in ends.

Weaving Section 3 – Left Hill: In this section, we are going to start creating the left hill by adding new yarn to the loom and decreasing how many warp yarns we work to create the shaping for the left hill. We will continue to work with Dishie in Kenai. We will be working one less warp per row. I have included instructions with the warp numbers to assist you. If you find yourself running low on yarn, make sure to leave enough yarn to weave in your end and rewind your weft to continue weaving.

Rows 1 – 3: Bringing the shuttle from right to left under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 17^th warp yarn making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end. Tabby Weave over the last 11 warps

Rows 4 – 5: Tabby Weave over the last 10 warps

Rows 5 – 6: Tabby Weave over the last 9 warps

Rows 6 – 7: Tabby Weave over the last 8 warps

Rows 8 – 9: Tabby Weave over the last 7 warps

Rows 10 – 11: Tabby Weave over the last 6 warps

Rows 12 – 13: Tabby Weave over the last 5 warps

Rows 14 – 15: Tabby Weave over the last 4 warps

Rows 16 – 17: Tabby Weave over the last 3 warps

Rows 18 – 19: Tabby Weave over the last 2 warps. Finish off, leaving a long tail to weave in ends.

Weaving Section 4 – Highlight of Hills: In this section, we are going to create the lighter section along the ridge of the hills to simulate the light from the sun touching the earth. Wind your weft with Dishie in Verdigris, alternatively, you may find this section easier using the needle provided in the kit. We will begin by doing tabby weave up the right side of the hill in Part A and working up the left side of the hill in Part B.

Part A: Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to left under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 14^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up under the 14^th warp, over the 15^th and under the 16^th.

Row 2: Tabby Weave over the 16^th, 15^th and 14th warps

Row 3: Tabby Weave over the 14^th, 15^th and 16th warps

Row 4: Tabby Weave over the 16^th, 15^th, 14^th and 13th warps

We’re going to start working up the hill on the right side

Row 5: Tabby Weave over the 13^th and 14^th warps

Row 6: Tabby Weave over the 14^th, 13^th and 12^th warps

Row 7: Tabby Weave over the 12^th and 13^th warps

Row 8: Tabby Weave over the 13^th, 12^th and 11^th warps

Row 9: Tabby Weave over the 11^th and 12^th warps

Row 10: Tabby Weave over the 12^th, 11^th and 10^th warps

Row 11: Tabby Weave over the 10^th and 11^th warps

Row 12: Tabby Weave over the 11^th, 10^th and 9^th warps

Row 13: Tabby Weave over the 9^th and 10^th warps

Row 14: Tabby Weave over the 10^th, 9^th and 8^th warps

Row 15: Tabby Weave over the 8^th and 9^th warps

Row 16: Tabby Weave over the 9^th, 8^th and 7^th warps

Row 17: Tabby Weave over the 7^th and 8^th warps

Row 18: Tabby Weave over the 8^th, 7^th and 6^th warps

Row 19: Tabby Weave over the 6^th and 7^th warps

Row 20: Tabby Weave over the 7^th, 6^th and 5^th warps

Row 21: Tabby Weave over the 5^th and 6^th warps

Row 22: Tabby Weave over the 6^th, 5^th and 4^th warps

Row 23: Tabby Weave over the 4^th and 5^th warps

Row 24: Tabby Weave over the 5^th, 4^th and 3^rd warps

Row 25: Tabby Weave over the 3^rd and 4^th warps

Row 26: Tabby Weave over the 4^th, 3^rd and 2^nd warps

Row 27: Tabby Weave over the 2^nd and 3^rd warps

Row 26: Tabby Weave over the 3^rd, 2^nd and 1^st warps

Rows 27 – 28: Tabby Weave over the 1^st and 2^nd warps

Rows 29 – 30: Tabby Weave over the 1^st warp. Finish off, leaving a long tail to weave in ends.

Part B: Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to left under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 16^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up over the 16^th warp and under the 17^th.

Row 2: Tabby Weave over the 17^th and 16^th warps.

Row 3: Tabby Weave over the 16^th, 17^th and 18^th warps.

Row 4: Tabby Weave over the 18^th and 17^th warps.

Row 5: Tabby Weave over the 17^th, 18^th and 19^th warps.

Row 6: Tabby Weave over the 19^th and 18^th warps.

Row 7: Tabby Weave over the 18^th, 19^th and 20^th warps.

Row 8: Tabby Weave over the 19^th and 20^th warps.

Row 9: Tabby Weave over the 19^th, 20^th and 21^st warps.

Row 10: Tabby Weave over the 21^st and 20^th warps.

Row 11: Tabby Weave over the 20^th, 21^st and 22^nd warps.

Row 12: Tabby Weave over the 22^nd and 21^st warps.

Row 13: Tabby Weave over the 21^st, 22^nd and 23^rd warps.

Row 14: Tabby Weave over the 23^rd and 22^nd warps.

Row 15: Tabby Weave over the 22^nd, 23^rd and 24^thwarps.

Row 16: Tabby Weave over the 24^th and 23^rd warps.

Row 17: Tabby Weave over the 23^rd, 24^th and 25^th warps.

Row 18: Tabby Weave over the 25^th and 24^th warps.

Row 19: Tabby Weave over the 24^th, 25^th, 26^th and 27^th warps.

Rows 20 – 21: Tabby Weave over the 27^th, 26^th and 25^th warps.

Row 22: Tabby Weave over the 27^th warp. Finish off, leaving a long tail to weave in ends.

Weaving Section 5 – Sunset: In this section, we are going to create the Sun between the hills. Wind your weft with Dishie in Conch, alternatively, you may find this section easier using the needle provided in the kit. In this section, we’re going to begin weaving in the center-point of our hills and start adding warps on either side as we work to fill in the space with Conch and create our sun. Once we have filled in most of the space, we will being decreasing to add the rounded shape to the top of our sun.

Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to left under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 15^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up over the 15^th warp

Rows 2 – 3: Tabby Weave over the 15^th and 14^th warps.

Row 4: Tabby Weave over the 15^th, 14^th and 13^th warps.

Row 5: Tabby Weave over the 13^th – 16^th warps.

Row 6: Tabby Weave over the 16^th – 13^th warps.

Row 7: Tabby Weave over the 13^th – 17^th warps.

Rows 8 – 9: Tabby Weave over the 17^th – 12^th warps.

Row 10: Tabby Weave over the 17^th – 11^th warps.

Row 11: Tabby Weave over the 11^th – 18^th warps.

Row 12: Tabby Weave over the 18^th – 10^th warps.

Row 13: Tabby Weave over the 10^th – 19^th warps.

Row 14: Tabby Weave over the 19^th – 9^th warps.

Row 15: Tabby Weave over the 9^th – 20^th warps.

Row 16: Tabby Weave over the 20^th – 9^th warps.

Row 17: Tabby Weave over the 9^th – 21^st warps.

Row 18: Tabby Weave over the 21^st – 8^th warps.

Row 19: Tabby Weave over the 8^th – 22^nd warps.

Row 20: Tabby Weave over the 22^nd – 7^th warps.

Row 21: Tabby Weave over the 7^th – 23^rd warps.

Rows 22 – 24: Tabby Weave over the 6^th – 23^rd warps.

Row 25: Tabby Weave over the 6^th – 22^nd warps.

Row 26: Tabby Weave over the 22^nd – 7^th warps.

Row 27: Tabby Weave over the 7^th – 21^st warps.

Row 28: Tabby Weave over the 21^st – 8^th warps.

Row 28: Tabby Weave over the 8^th – 20^th warps.

Row 29: Tabby Weave over the 20^th – 9^th warps.

Row 30: Tabby Weave over the 9^th – 19^th warps.

Row 31: Tabby Weave over the 19^th – 10^th warps.

Row 32: Tabby Weave over the 10^th – 18^th warps.

Row 33: Tabby Weave over the 18^th – 12^th warps.

Row 34: Tabby Weave over the 12^th – 17^th warps.

Weaving Section 6 – Sky: In this section, we are going to fill in the rest of the loom with the We Crochet Preciosa Tonal Yarn in Summer Sky to make our sky. This yarn is pretty and the tonal variations simulate wispy clouds the sky. Wind your weft with We Crochet Preciosa Tonal. We’ll start by filling in the right section of the loom to the top of the sun in Part 1 and then fill in the left side of the loom with Part 2. In Part 3, we’ll be filling in the rest of the loom and finishing off.

Sky Part 1: Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to left under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 5^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up over the 15^th warp

Row 2: Tabby Weave over the 5^th and 4^th warps.

Row 3: Tabby Weave over the 4^th, 5^th and 6^th warps.

Row 4: Tabby Weave over the 6^th – 3rd warps.

Row 5: Tabby Weave over the 3^rd – 7^th warps.

Row 6: Tabby Weave over the 7^th – 2^ndwarps.

Row 7: Tabby Weave over the 2^nd – 8^th warps.

Row 8: Tabby Weave over the 8^th – 1^st warps.

Rows 9 – 10: Tabby Weave over the 1^st – 9^th warps.

Rows 11 – 12: Tabby Weave over the 1^st – 10^th warps.

Rows 12 – 13: Tabby Weave over the 1^st – 11^th warps.

FO leaving a tail to weave in later.

Sky Part 2: Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 24^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up over the 24^th warp

Row 2: Tabby Weave over the 24^th and 23^rd warps.

Rows 3 – 4: Tabby Weave over the 23rd, 24^th and 25^thwarps.

Row 5: Tabby Weave over the 23^rd – 26^th warps.

Row 6: Tabby Weave over the 26^th – 22^nd warps.

Row 7: Tabby Weave over the 22^nd – 27^th warps.

Rows 8 – 9: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 21^stwarps.

Rows 10 – 11: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 20^thwarps.

Rows 12 – 13: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 19^thwarps.

Rows 14 – 15: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 18^thwarps.

Rows 16 – 17: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 19^thwarps.

Rows 18 – 19: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 20^thwarps.

Rows 20 – 21: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 21^stwarps.

Rows 22 – 23: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 22^ndwarps.

Rows 24 – 25: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 23^rd warps.

Rows 26 – 27: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 24^th warps.

Rows 28 – 29: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 25^th warps.

Rows 30 – 31: Tabby Weave over the 27^th – 26^th warps.

Row 32: Wrap yarn around 27^th warp.

FO leaving a tail to weave in later.

Sky Part 3: Row 1: Bringing the shuttle from right to under the warp yarns, begin weaving on the 12^th warp yarn (making sure to leave a tail to weave in at the end), coming up over the 12^th warp, tabby weave over the 12 – 17^th warps.

Row 2: Tabby Weave over the 17^th to 1^st warps

Rows 3 – 4: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 18^th warps

Rows 5 – 6: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 19^th warps

Rows 7 – 8: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 20^th warps

Rows 9 – 10: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 21^st warps

Rows 11 – 12: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 22^nd warps

Rows 13 – 14: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 23^rd warps

Rows 15 – 16: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 24^thwarps

Rows 17 – 18: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 25^thwarps

Rows 19 – 20: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 26^thwarps

Rows 21 – End: Tabby Weave over 1^st to 27^thwarps

Tip: when weaving with the shuttle/weft becomes too difficult, switch to using the needle provided in the kit.

Remove piece from the loom. Using tapestry needle, weave in ends in on the back of the piece. Cut 28 13” pieces of yarn in the Dishie in Kenai to use as fringe. Using two pieces of the yarn at a time, attach them to the bottom loops of the piece as fringe. I alternated pieces of fringe with pieces with beads along the bottom. To attach the beads to the fringe, holding two pieces of fringe together, fold them in half and thread a bead over both strands. Feed the loop of your fringe from front to back through a loop in the bottom of your piece. Feed the tails of your fringe through the loop of your fringe and pull taught so the loops sit up against the bottom of the bead, holding it in place.

When finished attaching fringe, trim the ends up so they’re all even. Using tapestry needle and long piece of yarn, whip stitch your piece to the dowel and hang. Tie a long piece of Dishie in Swan to each end of the dowel to create a hanger. That’s it! I hope you enjoyed making your Sunset Wall Hanging.

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